Birria de Res (Beef Birria)

Birria de Res (Beef Birria)

Birria is the type of recipe that, frankly, can intimidate. Its long list of ingredients and multiple steps - from roasting the peppers and toasting the spices, to browning the meat and pureeing the sauce - can take the better part of the morning and despite my best efforts always make a mess of my kitchen. But it is absolutely worth it, partially because the recipe makes SO much that you'll be able to eat it for days or months if you use your freezer and partially because it's just so dang good.

You'll find hundreds of recipes for Birria on the internet, so where do you start? There's no one definitive Birria recipe, and I am not Mexican so I'd never claim to offer one. What I'm offering is a recipe that I've developed from reading and eating, from using the types of ingredients easily available to me and learning where I can make substitutions and adaptations.

One other thing I love about Birria, besides it's incredible taste? All the skills it'll make you use and master to create a pot. So let's break it down a little bit.

What types of chilis should I use?

My pantry is usually home to five or six different varieties of dried chilis at a time, but Guajillo - with their medium spice level and sweet smokiness - always find a home there. If you don't keep dried chilis on hand and don't want to buy a whole bunch of different types, I'd recommend you just get Guajillo chilis. For more spice, toss in one or two Chiles de Arbol. For more smoke, try Ancho. While many grocery stores have a variety of dried chilis, you may need to visit a local Mexican market to find more variety (and it's really fun to see just how many different types they carry!)

Toasting chilis and spices

Toasting dried spices chilis and spices releases their volatile oils, enhancing their aroma and flavors. But we're toasting notburning. The key is to use your nose. You may need to put your nose within an inch or two of dried spices to really smell them, but during the toasting process, your spices and chilis will release as sudden burst of aroma that you will smell even from the other side of the kitchen. Remove them now - don't wait. They burn quickly. It only takes 10-15 seconds in a hot pan and it's easy to burn them, so don't walk away.

Roasting Peppers

Fresh peppers, like poblanos, can be roasted in the oven or directly over a gas burner. This does a couple of things - it brings out their sweetness, adds a touch of smoke, and chars the skins so that they can be easily removed from the pepper. Placing them directly over a gas burner is probably the fastest method, but more hands on. Whichever method you select, your peppers are done when the flesh has softened, and the skin has charred all over. Then you have to steam them so the skins slip right off. Just place them in a bowl with a cover for 10 minutes. You'll then be able to easily remove the skins, seeds and stems from the peppers.

Browning Meat

Okay, this one should be easy right? But in my experience, most people either under brown their meat - crowding it into the pan so that it "steams" rather than browns - or burn it over too high of heat. Use medium, not medium-high heat, leave room in between each piece of meat so that they don't end up steaming each other as they release their liquid, and work in batches. Sometimes, browning the meat is the most time consuming part of a cooking project like this but it's worth taking the time to get it right.

If all this sounds like a lot, well, you're not wrong. It's safe to say that recipes like birria come from a different time. Like boeuf bourguignon or birria are designed to take less appealing cuts of meat and transform them into something spectacularly rich and satisfying, but it takes time and patience. But, for what it's worth, once you've done it a few times, it comes together faster and faster. The initial hands-on steps of a recipe like birria now take me about 30-45 minutes. After that, it's into the oven for a few hours. At that point, I can clean up my kitchen, prep whatever garnishes I'll be using or even make tortillas by hand. But honestly, I usually just take a nap - lulled to sleep by the smell of warming spices, savory meat and toasty chilis.

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